It’s 1485 in medieval England and the soon-to-be tumultuous Tudor reign has just begun. The Tudors relished opportunities to strengthen their dynasty’s image and jewellery played a strategic role. Royal families had long used jewellery to showcase their access to the finest materials and craftsmen available during their time in power. However, the Tudor era embraced this tradition with far more enthusiasm than their predecessors. Jewellery became particularly prominent in royal portraits, symbolising wealth and a divine right to rule. The trend of painting a subject in their finest clothes and jewellery rippled into the wealthy upper classes. Tudor portraits had a distinct intensity, often drawing focus to their elaborate finery and powerful stance.
The social constructs concerning jewellery-wear were inclusive to all who could afford it. In fact, men wore just as much jewellery as women. The idea that jewellery was a feminine accessory wasn’t popularised until the Victorian era (Google Arts & Culture). It became particularly fashionable for wealthy men to sport a single earring and several rings on their fingers. However, the eye-catching pieces tended to be the intricately detailed pendants hung by thick, gem-set chains. Tudor pendants often drew inspiration from flowers and animals, portraying a powerful or whimsical nature of the wearer. An example of this is pieces featuring the Tudor rose, symbolising dynasty and unification, worn to make a social or political statement.
Another example is the unique pieces that used fine gold and baroque pearls or enamel to craft an animal of a fanciful nature. Elizabeth I was supposedly very fond of animal-themed jewellery and wore it as a form of self-expression. Today, jewellery is still used to display elements of the wearer’s personality or beliefs.
The jewellery trade substantially strengthened over the century-reign fueled by a growing demand for luxury goods and improved global trade. This meant the Tudor monarchs were not in short supply of gold and gemstone treasures. Henry VIII was believed to have owned over 700 rings during his life. Many of these rings displayed sophisticated jewellery design and technique, most notably his engraved gemstone rings. These pieces consisted of finely carved stones depicting classic motifs or small portraits framed by gold as platinum was not popularly used in jewellery until the 19th century. Some of his rings were set with ancient Roman intaglios (precisely engraved gemstones that were initially used for wax or clay seals).
However, there are almost no surviving rings left from Henry VIII’s vast collection. The majority of the Tudor monarchs’ jewellery and fine trinkets did not survive to the present day, due to the efforts of Oliver Cromwell. An innumerable number of items were sold or dismantled and the metal was melted down to be repurposed. Luckily, many pieces outside of the crown’s collection survived thanks to families passing down precious heirlooms and historic preservationists researching and locating lost artefacts. Because of our profound need to connect to both our past and future, we can get a glimpse of life during a certain period. Countless stories and speculations can emerge from one piece of jewellery. Was the owner a wealthy heiress who commissioned wondrous creations to proudly display at galas and balls? Or perhaps a finely skilled apprentice, learning the age-old craft of jewellery in hopes of making a name for themselves that will transcend their lifetime? It is a joy to wonder how these works of art came into existence and what history they hold.
Goldsmiths (particularly members of the Goldsmith’s Company) during this period were crucial in regulating the quality of gold and silver wares through assaying and hallmarking. To put it simply, Hallmark assures the owner that their piece of jewellery is what it says it is. This was essential in building trust between the goldsmith or merchant and the customer. Hallmarks are still vital in this practice today. The history and evolution of hallmarking will be detailed in a future blog.
Overall, the Tudor period defined jewellery as a status symbol and an expression of identity as their deep appreciation for the finely tuned craft still echoes through the industry today.